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Market Analysis:More Chinese are prone to try whites and sparklings, and even roses
2023-05-30


Market trends and data suggest that the perception of China and other Asian markets primarily as red wine markets may no longer be accurate. Increasingly, more Chinese consumers are open to trying white wines, sparkling wines, and even rosés.

 

The preference for red wines in China and other Asian countries has been influenced by cultural factors and historical consumer behavior. In Chinese culture, the color red is associated with luck, joy, and health, which may contribute to the preference for red wines. Additionally, as wine consumption became popular in these regions, consumers tended to favor bigger, rich, and powerful wines, which are often red wines. These wines often have higher alcohol content and some residual sugar. The popularity of wines like Amarone, made from air-dried grapes, can also be attributed to these preferences. Moreover, wine has been viewed as a status symbol, leading to a focus on famous wines like Bordeaux's First Growths, rather than more affordable and food-friendly options.

 

However, societal changes and evolving consumer preferences are reshaping the wine market in China and Asia. What was true in the past may not hold true today. Just as lunchtime scenes in high-end restaurants in the 1980s and 1990s predominantly featured bottles of mineral water, the landscape has now shifted, with wine becoming more common during lunchtime. New generations have different behaviors and preferences, and their appreciation for and interest in wine may differ from previous generations.

 

These changing dynamics in the Chinese wine market indicate a growing openness to explore a wider range of wine styles, including whites, sparklings, and rosés. As consumer preferences continue to evolve, the perception of China as primarily a red wine market may no longer be accurate. The wine industry should take note of these shifting trends and adjust their strategies accordingly to meet the changing demands of Chinese consumers.

 

The "red wine or bust" mentality in China is increasingly being seen as a failure by those living and working in the country. Not all red wines are as popular as they once were among Chinese wine drinkers. This shift in preferences can be attributed to several factors, including the culinary diversity in China. Most of the eight great Chinese cuisines are better suited to white wines, particularly those made with aromatic white grape varieties. Certain regional cuisines, such as Sichuanese, Hunanese, and Yunnannese, are especially well-paired with white wines.

 

Furthermore, it is becoming evident that the notion of pairing spicy cuisines with spicy wines is not the only consideration. For example, it would make little sense to pair anything other than a fresh, light-bodied white wine with the cuisines of Taizhou and the Zhejiang province. The reality is that Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have limited or almost no place in the Chinese dining culture. The extensive cultivation of these grape varieties in China says more about the influence of human nature and the initial preferences of foreign winemaking consultants, who tend to favor varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. As Chinese consumers became more curious, knowledgeable, and accustomed to drinking wines with their meals, the fortunes of red wines were bound to decline.

 

China's status as the third-largest country in the world necessitates careful data analysis. It is crucial to compare data by sub-regions and sub-markets within the country to avoid drawing misleading or incorrect conclusions. While red wine still remains the preferred choice for many Chinese wine drinkers, it is important to recognize that China is not a homogenous market. Sales trends in Shanghai may not accurately represent those in Northern China or Western China. For instance, red wine still dominates in Northern China, while Eastern China and Southern China exhibit more interesting sales patterns for sparkling and white wines. Although red wines remain popular, they are no longer the sole choice for consumers in the wine market.

 

Indeed, it is becoming evident that certain red wines fare better than others in the Chinese market, regardless of the specific region being analyzed. The "Chinese palate" tends to shy away from excessive tannins and high acidity in red wines. Wines made from grapes such as Pinot Noir and Grenache are more popular compared to those made from Sangiovese, for example. The Chinese wine consumers' learning curve is steeply rising, as evidenced by the growing number of students enrolling in wine education programs like the WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust). Chinese wine professionals are actively participating in courses organized by wine councils from various countries, such as Wines of Spain and Wines of Chile. They also seek more in-depth knowledge through specialized courses like those focusing on Italian and Burgundy wines offered by institutions like the TerroirSense Wine Academy and private wine schools.

 

As a result, sales of "new" wines made from low-tannin grape varieties like Grenache are on the rise. It's not just specific red grapes and wines that are gaining ground; there is also an increasing appreciation for white wines among Chinese wine professionals. While this trend is still gentle, a better understanding of wine and food pairing is leading to a shift in preferences. In the past, white wines were rarely served at dinners with Chinese friends, comprising no more than 15-20% of the total wines served. However, nowadays, it is common for white wines to make up 40 to 50% of the wines served during such occasions. This shift reflects the evolving tastes and knowledge of Chinese wine consumers. As society changes and wine enthusiasts gain greater knowledge, further shifts in wine drinking preferences are expected.

 

While red wine sales still dominate the Chinese market, there has been a notable increase in the sales of white wines, particularly in first-tier cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen. Additionally, coastal cities like Xiamen, Shantou, and Qingdao have seen growth in white wine sales due to their cuisine, which often includes seafood. This shift can be attributed to improved wine education, as Chinese consumers are becoming more aware of the importance of wine selection based on food pairing. They are realizing that Cabernet Sauvignon, a popular red wine, may not be suitable for every occasion or dish.

 

However, the rise in sales of sparkling wines has been less significant according to Christopher Tran, the general manager of Lelane Imports, a prominent wine importer in China. While some may have expected or hoped for stronger growth in sparkling wine sales, it seems that it has not been as pronounced. Interestingly, Tran also highlights a cultural difference in beverage preferences, noting that Westerners often order sparkling water in restaurants, while Chinese guests tend to prefer still water.

Apologies for the repetition in my previous response. It seems that the information you provided emphasizes the increasing popularity of sparkling wines and white wines in China, while red wines have experienced a decline in sales growth.

 

Olivier Six of East Meets West (EMW) notes a sharp increase in sales of sparkling wines, particularly Champagne and Prosecco, over the past five years. While white wines have also seen significant growth, sparkling wines have shown slightly stronger performance in their case.

 

Matteo Cecchetto from Summergate acknowledges that wine sales, in general, have been adversely affected by the COVID-19 pandemic and are now starting to recover. The Chinese market has drifted from a high of volume sales in 2017 (78,720 per 10,000 liters) and value in 2018 (341,464 per 10,000 $US) to the much less thrilling 2022 numbers of 31,022 (per 10,000 liters) and 131,020 (per 10,000 $US). However, even before the pandemic, red wines had the largest decline in Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) compared to other wine types. From 2015 to 2020, the CAGR for red wines was -12.1%, while white wines, rosé wines, and sparkling wines had comparatively smaller declines which are -11.5%, -4.9% and -4.7%. Cecchetto suggests that as the market matures, sales of white, sparkling, and rosé wines are expected to grow further, with Champagne and sparkling wines projected to have higher CAGRs for the period of 2021-2026. ( It is estimated to be only +2% each for red and white wines, it is an impressive +11.4% for Champagne and +4.8% for sparkling wine in general.)

 

Zihong Zhang of the TerroirSense Wine Review supports the idea that white wines have gained popularity in China, particularly among younger consumers (26-45 years old)with intermediate or stronger wine knowledge. Additionally, Zhang sees a promising future for sparkling wines in the Chinese market.

 

Taken together, these insights suggest a shift in consumer preferences towards sparkling wines and white wines in China, with red wines experiencing a decline in growth. The recovery of wine sales post-COVID and the maturation of the market are expected to further drive the growth of white, sparkling, and rosé wines.

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